Born and raised in Stellenbosch, Germaine Esau initially pursued a BSc in Earth Science at the University of Stellenbosch. His journey into the culinary world began unexpectedly when he entered a cooking competition during his final year. The competition, which required creating a three-course menu using ingredients from sponsors like I&J and Golden Cloud, led to an unexpected win, earning him a three-year bursary to study culinary arts.
Faced with a choice between continuing his Earth Science studies or following his culinary passion, Germaine chose the latter, enrolling at the Institute of Culinary Arts (ICA) in Stellenbosch. This decision marked the start of a 15-year culinary career. Today, Germaine serves as the head chef at Groot Phesantekraal, a renowned restaurant in Durbanville. Under his leadership, the restaurant has embraced hyper-seasonal menus, showcasing farm-sourced ingredients and an innovative approach to South African cuisine.
The Shaping of a Chef: Learning from Mentors and Gaining New Skills
Germaine’s culinary journey was shaped by the mentors he encountered early in his career. His first role at Bread and Wine Restaurant on Moreson Wine Farm, working with Neil Jewell, sparked his passion for charcuterie and instilled a strong work ethic. From there, he moved to Delaire Graff Restaurant, where under Christian Campbell, he learned the importance of sourcing the best ingredients and the art of minimal manipulation. This experience also grounded his commitment to sustainability and ethical sourcing.
Next, Germaine joined Mike Bassett at Myoga at The Vineyard Hotel, where he faced the challenge of adapting his classical French training to an Asian fusion menu. Although difficult at first, this experience led him to experiment with fermentation and new ingredients, expanding his culinary skills.
Reflecting on his career, Germaine doesn’t point to a single defining moment. Instead, it was the moments of flow in the kitchen, where everything came together seamlessly and guests were happy, that solidified his passion for cooking. These early experiences affirmed his decision to pursue a career in the culinary world—a decision that continues to drive him forward today.
Germaine’s Evolving Cooking Philosophy: Quality over Intricacy
Over the years, Germaine’s cooking style has evolved, shaped by his journey and growth as a chef. In the beginning, he sought to impress with intricate dishes, using many elements on the plate. However, as he matured in his career, he came to realise that simplicity is often the key. "If you cook simple things well, with proper ingredients, there’s nowhere to hide," he explains. This philosophy was reinforced by Richard Carstens, who taught him that what you leave off the plate is just as important as what you put on it. Germaine’s focus now is on cooking fewer elements but ensuring each one is prepared to perfection.
Inspiration from Life’s Moments
Germaine finds inspiration for his dishes everywhere, often in unexpected places. "It doesn’t have to be food-related," he says. Inspiration can come from something as simple as watching a movie with his wife, where a fleeting moment sparks an idea. For Germaine, cooking is like drawing from a memory bank—creating dishes that evoke emotions and memories. He shares an example of a dish featuring coconut, pineapple, and coriander, which unexpectedly reminded guests of childhood pineapple ice lollies. This connection was unintentional, but it highlighted how food can evoke memories and emotions. Cooking for him is about unintentionally creating connections through food.
Viewing Setbacks as Lessons
Germaine is his own harshest critic but has come to see failure as a stepping stone rather than a setback. "Failure is not necessarily a bad thing," he reflects. "It’s a teachable moment." He believes that failure teaches you what doesn’t work and sets you on a new path. Whether it’s a decision to leave a job that wasn’t the right fit or a dish that doesn’t turn out as expected, Germaine views each experience as part of the journey. "There’s never failure," he says. "It’s always a lesson."
Key Qualities When Selecting a Supplier
For Germaine, communication and reliability are key factors when selecting suppliers for his kitchen. While price is important, it takes a back seat to a consistent, dependable service. He values suppliers, like Caterlink, who not only deliver on time but also communicate promptly when something is unavailable, offering alternatives to ensure the kitchen runs smoothly. This level of service is crucial to maintaining an efficient kitchen, and Caterlink strives to meet these expectations by consistently providing timely deliveries and clear communication.
Essential Ingredients and Brands That Elevate Dishes
For Germaine, the foundation of great cooking starts with simple, high-quality ingredients, many of which are sourced from trusted suppliers like Caterlink. Salt, olive oil, and vinegar are his go-to staples, with Maldon Salt, a product Caterlink proudly distributes, being his preferred brand. He emphasises the importance of using good oils, such as sunflower oil, and being mindful of non-GMO products, all essential for proper seasoning and creating balanced flavours in any dish.
When it comes to specific brands, Eureka’s stone-ground flour, another favourite available through Caterlink, stands out. Unlike commercially produced flours, Eureka flour is unbleached, retaining wild yeast and nutrients that make it ideal for creating rustic, hearty bread. Germaine’s team bakes fresh bread daily using this flour, producing a chewy, flavourful texture that perfectly complements the farm-to-table philosophy at Groot Phesantekraal.
Growth and Legacy in the Kitchen
Germaine believes in fostering growth, both within his kitchen and for his own career. His team, many of whom started with no formal experience, are given the opportunity to learn and develop essential skills, from butchering to vegetable preparation. He values the teachable moments in the kitchen, seeing them as opportunities for his staff to build confidence and move on to other roles with valuable skills.
Although he’s still young at 38, Germaine is focused on leaving a lasting legacy. He wants to mentor his team to become better than he is, believing that a true leader helps others surpass their own achievements. By teaching his staff everything he knows, he’s laying the foundation for their future success and hoping they’ll go on to achieve even greater things than he has.
